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Experts from around the world share their thoughts on umami and original recipes where umami is brought to life.
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Continuing the family tradition of the long-standing Tsukji Tamura restaurant in Tokyo, chef Tamura explains his passion for the umami philosophy.
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Takashi Tamura
Third-Generation Owner of Tsukiji Tamura/
Japan |
The basis of umami in Japanese cuisine is, above all, dashi (stock). At Tsukiji Tamura, we use kombu (kelp) from the Hakodate coast in Hokkaido and katsuobushi (bonito flakes) from Makurazaki, Kagoshima, mixed with mejibushi, dried flakes similar to katsuobushi but made with mejimaguro (a kind of tuna), in order to create a superb dashi with body and complexity. In comparison to ichiban (first) dashi, which has a particularly good aroma, a niban (second) dashi is characteristically brimming with umami.
‘Nishime’, a form of stewing which is one of the cornerstones of Japanese cuisine, is a method of cooking the umami flavor into the ingredients. This method does not simply involve simmering the ingredients over a long time. Rather, when they are taken from the heat, the umami goes on percolating into the ingredients all the more. “ It’s the time not spent simmering that makes it," goes the saying which encapsulates the real trick to making good simmer food.
In recent years, umami has become known worldwide and is attracting much attention, but I believe we Japanese are equipped with an instinctive physical recognition of umami. Growing accustomed to meals in which dashi plays a crucial role since childhood, naturally we become able to taste umami with great subtlety, sensitivity and accuracy. You could certainly say that umami is part of the Japanese DNA.
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Takashi Tamura's Profile
Born on the 30th of November, 1957, in Tsukiji, the area of Tokyo where Japan’s most famous fishmarket lies. The eldest son of the family owning Tsukiji Tamura Restaurant. After graduating from university in 1980, he began his apprenticeship at the prestigious Osaka restaurant, Koraibashi Kitcho. After three years of training he returned to the main branch of Tsukiji Tamura in Tsukiji. Whilst displaying his skill on the front line in the kitchen, he has appeared on NHK TV cookery programmes, worked as a teacher at culinary schools, published cookery books, and taken part in other related activities, always championing the cause of food aimed at ordinary people. |
 Chef Tamura's
‘Nishime (simmered chicken and vegetables)’
Ingredients:
serves 4 |
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dried shiitake mushrooms |
12 (small) |
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lotus root |
150g |
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burdock root |
100g |
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konnyaku(devil's tongue) |
one flat piece |
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carrots |
150g |
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chicken thighs |
300g |
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broccoli |
100g |
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yellow pepper |
one (large) |
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stock (strong) |
3 cups |
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salad oil |
2tbsp |
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soy sauce |
4tbsp |
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sugar |
4tbsp |
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Method:
| 1) |
Re-hydrate dried shiitake in plenty of water. Cut off stalks. Peel lotus root, slice into large pieces cutting from the bottom up, diagonally, turning as you cut (rangiri) cubes and rinse. Scrape skin off the burdock, cut diagonally in circles to make funnel-shaped incisions. Cut the konnyaku (konjac) into bite-size pieces with the rim of a glass. |
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| 2) |
Peel carrots, cut into pieces. (rangiri). Sever the tendons in chicken thigh and cut into large bite-size pieces. |
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| 3) |
Cut broccoli into bite-size pieces and boil. Cut yellow pepper into bite-size pieces. |
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| 4) |
Heat salad oil in a large stew pan. Fry the chicken thigh and carrot. When the surface of the meat turns white, remove meat and carrot together. |
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| 5) |
Tip vegetables and konnyaku from 1) into the same pan and fry briefly. Add the dashi (see instructions for dashi below) and heat on a medium flame. |
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| 6) |
Return the chicken and carrot from 4) to the pan and add sugar and soy sauce. Remove the scum and cover with lid. Leave to simmer on medium flame for five minutes. Turn off heat, remove lid. Allow to cool. |
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| 7) |
Cover with lid and heat again. Switch off heat just before contents come to boil. Remove lid and allow to cool. Repeat until the flavor permeates the ingredients. |
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| 8) |
Return to the flame once more and sprinkle in on one tablespoon of soy sauce. Add the ingredients from 3). Shake nabe pan and turn over the ingredients, boiling until all juice has disappeared. |
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Method for dashi stock
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