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Experts from around
the world share their thoughts
on umami and original recipes where umami is brought to life.
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Recently, Brazil has seen a rising interest in elaborate cooking and
innovative new ingredients and techniques, as a result of the growing popularity of
gourmet food and progress in the technical skills of leading chefs at work today.
According to Mara Salles, a chef who specializes in Brazilian cuisine, gastronomy in
Brazil is evolving steadily and there is now great huge interest in diverse cuisines.
“Gastronomy is not just about satisfying hunger,” she explains. “It’s also very
much about discovering and exploring of new sensations”. Listening to Mara, it is
clear that, for her, the umami taste has a vital role to play in bringing otherwise
unlike combinations of ingredients together, resulting in even more delicious
dishes.
Mara began her research into umami after attending an Umami Symposium in 2006. “It
made me understand that some foods are a rich natural source of umami”, she explains.
Umami has great potential in Brazilian food which, as Mara tells us, has one very
distinct characteristic: “While French cuisine appreciates the aroma above all else,
Arabian the strength, and Japanese the healthfulness, the first priority in Brazilian
cuisine is the taste. We value food with bold flavors more than aesthetically pleasing
dishes”. Whilst each country’s cuisine has its own defining feature, together they
share one common trait: each has traditionally used umami to differentiate itself from
other national cuisines. Although research on this significant culinary resource has
only begun recently, umami today continues to be used by chefs who combine umami-rich
ingredients according to their individual perception.
As far as Mara is concerned, familiarity with and use of umami is the mark of a
knowledgeable chef. “Umami is a new issue that has caught the attention of culinary
professionals”, she says. At her lectures on umami, too, she is careful to point out
to attendees just how important it is to understand umami properly. “I try to show
people how they can make foods that are rich with the umami taste,” she concludes.
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Mara Salles |
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Mara Salles's profile
Mara Salles is partner and chef of the Tordesilhas restaurant in São Paulo.
Tordesilhas is a constant feature in Brazil’s top 50 best restaurant rankings, and
has been rated as Brazil’s top restaurant for authentic Brazilian cuisine for several
years by specialist magazines.
However, she does more than just oversee the cooking at her restaurant. She has been
researching Brazilian cuisine for over 20 years, and today teaches gastronomy at
university level. Mara travels throughout the country to explore traditions,
ingredients and dishes, and brings back what she finds to incorporate into her dishes
at Tordesilhas. At her restaurant with its cosy and rustic atmosphere, she proves that
it is possible to combine both tradition and current gastronomic trends to great
effect. Mara also attends gastronomy events and is a regular presence on the lecture
circuit.
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Mara Salles's
Cuscuz Paulista
Ingredients:
serves 10 |
500g fish fillet (any sea fish) |
250g medium shrimps, peeled and deveined |
* ½ green bell pepper, chopped
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* ½ red bell pepper, chopped |
1 medium onion, finely chopped |
* 3 ripe tomatoes (peeled and seeded),
chopped (sliced for decoration) |
* 3 boiled eggs |
* 150g heart of palm, diced |
* 200g sardines in oil (tinned) |
150g preserved peas
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2 tsp scallion, chopped |
50g green olives |
Lemon juice to season fish and shrimp |
1 tsp coriander, chopped |
Salt and black pepper to taste |
3 tbsp olive oil |
250g corn flour
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100g cassava or tapioca flour |
3 cloves garlic, chopped |
400ml fish stock |
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Method
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1) |
First, grease a pudding mold with olive oil. This should then be
decorated, using some tomato slices and some of the egg, green bell and red bell
pepper, heart of palm, sardine fillets and shrimp when cooked, as suggested
below. |

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2) |
Season the fish and shrimp with salt, lemon juice, coriander and blackpepper.
Stir fry them in olive oil (separately) and set aside. |

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3) |
Mix the corn and cassava (tapioca) flours, moisten the mixture with wet
hands and set aside. |

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4) |
Cook the garlic in olive oil. Add green and red bell peppers, onion and
chopped tomatoes. Stew for 10 minutes. |

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5) |
Add the fish stock, stir-fried fish and shrimps, reserving one or two for
decoration. |

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6) |
When the mixture comes to the boil, add the eggs, heart of palm, sardine,
peas, scallions and olives. |

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7) |
When it comes back to the boil again, season to taste. Gradually add the
corn and tapioca flours and stir until firm. |

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8) |
Immediately place the mixture in the decorated mold. Press in with a spoon
to make it compact. |

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9) |
Let the mold stand at room temperature for at least 3 hours before
serving. |

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Copyright © Umami Information
Center 2009 |
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