Making the Most of Konbu
An Introduction to the Art of the ‘Konbulier'

Konbu, or kelp, has the highest level of free-found glutamate of any foodstuff, and its umami-rich flavour is often used to make dashi or stock, which forms the basis of many Japanese dishes. Here, Mr. Takashi Okui, President of Okui Kaiseido Ltd., explains why there is more to konbu than meets the eye, with a variety of factors affecting the character of each specimen.


Varieties of Konbu


There are many different varieties of konbu, including rishiri, rausu, yamadashi or makonbu and hidaka, with the most celebrated example being the rishiri konbu that can be found on Kafuka beach on the island of Rebun, off Hokkaido in northern Japan. The flavour of rishiri konbu stock is very delicate, while that made from rausu konbu is as aromatic as soy sauce or miso. Yamadashi and hidaka varieties, meanwhile, lie somewhere between these two extremes.

What affects the character of konbu ?

Konbu is graded according to four distinct quality levels

To a great extent, the quality of a certain konbu is determined by the environment and geography of the area where it grows. Its classification depends on a number of factors, including the beach where it was collected, region, exposure to the sun, underwater currents and the presence of rivers or channels. Beaches are generally classified into superior beaches, premium beaches, select beaches and average beaches. As a rule, first class konbu is never found on average beaches, but only on superior beaches. In some ways, the method of classification is similar to that of wine. In France, for instance, it is mandatory under labeling regulations for the place of production to be stated on the bottle, and moreover each production centre has classifications such as grand cru, premier cru etc.

Also in common with wine, some years' konbu is better than others, and since it takes around two years for good konbu to reach maturity, a poor harvest one year is often followed by an abundant one the next. Moreover, years do not just vary according to quantity, but also quality, with good and bad years dependent on meteorological conditions.

Laying down konbu

There is a method of preserving konbu known as kura-gakoi or ‘cellar conservation'. This traditional practice, which dates back many years, is generally only used in the case of top quality rishiri konbu, and is similar in many ways to the ‘laying down' of a fine wine. After being stored for a number of years in an environment where the humidity and temperature are strictly controlled, the rishiri konbu loses its distinctive odour, and acquires a more subtle and refined taste.

As I mentioned above, the character of konbu can differ greatly according to its place of origin and the year in which it was harvested, and I think it is important to be aware of these variations in character when cooking with konbu. For example, konbu maki or ‘rolled konbu ' need not be cooked long to become tender when made using hidaka konbu, but requires a significantly longer cooking time when made using rishiri konbu.

Kura-gakoi or ‘cellar conservation' of konbu

What makes a ‘konbulier'?

To recap, therefore, the correct usage of a particular piece to konbu depends on two factors, namely the beach where it was harvested and its year of production. And just as we use the word sommelier to refer to an expert on wine, it is perhaps appropriate to refer to a connoisseur of the characteristics of konbu as a ‘konbulier'. Why not try discovering the diversity and subtleties of konbu for yourself?



Okui Kaiseido
www.konbu. co.jp (Japanese Only)