日本の 郷土料理と うま味
Local Cuisine in Japan
and Umami

Local Cuisine of Ishikawa

Nasu no orandani
Nasu no orandani

Risshū (August 8–22) is considered the beginning of autumn in the traditional 24 solar terms. Around this time, eggplant—a classic summer vegetable—is at its peak. A local dish from Ishikawa Prefecture using eggplant, called Nasu no orandani, is commonly served during the harvest season.
The name Orandani is said to originate from a Western cooking method introduced through Nagasaki Prefecture. This simple dish involves trimming whole eggplants and simmering them in a broth made from dashi, soy sauce, and sugar.

In Ishikawa Prefecture, it is a popular summer delicacy, along with Nasu somen—a dish made with stewed eggplant and somen noodles. "Nasu no olandani" is perfect for this time of year in Japan and can also be served cold. Eggplant that has been thoroughly infused with the umami of dashi is incredibly delicious.

Kamo no Jibuni
Kamo no Jibuni

Jibuni is a traditional regional dish from Ishikawa Prefecture.
It is made by simmering duck meat, sudare-fu (a type of soft wheat gluten unique to this prefecture), and seasonal vegetables. The duck meat is dusted with flour to thicken the broth, which is a defining feature of the dish.

Originating in samurai cuisine, it is said to have been eaten since the Edo period. One theory suggests that the Christian daimyo Ukon Takayama learned it from a missionary and passed it on to the Kaga domain. While it is believed to have started as a samurai dish, ordinary people also hunted migratory birds from the mainland and made Jibuni during the fall and winter.

Over time, it began to be served in restaurants and was offered as a tribute dish to feudal lords. From that period on, it was traditionally served in a special thin bowl with a wide, shallow mouth. Even today, it is enjoyed as a home-cooked meal to welcome guests and as a dish for special occasions. It is also featured in Japanese restaurants specializing in local cuisine. By sprinkling flour over the meat before cooking, the umami of the duck is sealed in and the broth thickens, allowing the flavors to blend harmoniously. Depending on the season, seafood may also be added. When wasabi is used, Its refreshing spiciness harmonizes perfectly with the tender duck meat.

Kaburazushi
Kaburazushi

Kanburi, winter yellowtail harvested from the Sea of Japan, is famous for being fatty. The yellowtail is salted and placed in between a slit cut into a winter turnip. The turnip and yellowtail are fermented with koji-mold (aspergillus oryzae) and amazake, a naturally sweet slurry made from koji-mold. This style of sushi is called narezushi and is one of the first types of sushi. Narezushi preceded Edomae sushi that is now popular around the world.

Kaburazushi is made in winter in the cold climate of the Hokuriku region. The cooler winter temperatures slows down the fermentation allowing for the gradual aging of the sushi. Kaburazushi has been recognized as a Kanazawa delicacy since the Edo period (1603-1868). It was common practice in the past to make kaburazushi at home and other fish besides yellowtail can be used such as saba mackerel. Each household has their own recipe which they are proud of and the kaburazushi is between friends.

Kaburazushi is often served on New Year’s Day. Many supermarkets will sell koji-mold and amazake in this season. Neighboring Toyama prefecture also has a culture of eating kaburazushi. As kaburazushi ages the sushi develops a hint of acidity from lactic fermentation. The salted yellowtail has a rich umami. The dish is a balance of salt, acid, and umami. It has a unique lively aroma which is a particular characteristic of fermented dishes.